Midwest Tent, Bag, and Canvas

Instructions for VT-14 Viking/Norman

Tent Set-up

The 14-foot Viking wedge tent is a canvas tent made of quality waterproof grade AA-B cotton canvas. It has 6 – 30” wide panels in the roof for a period look. All stress points are reinforced with webbing, and the ridge in reinforced with a canvas or webbing reinforcement strip. There are doors at both ends, and over-length spike straps. The side straps are positioned so that they may be inserted through slots in side-boards to seal tight against the weather. The spike straps may also be used with conventional spikes, by either twisting them double-looped and inserting the spike through the loops, or shortening them by pulling up the extra and tack-sewing. The roof can be supported in several ways, but the simplest is two poles, and two ropes. Elaborate frames can also be constructed, mimicking the ship side-boards that these style tents were often pitched on.

Simple poles setup:

Two poles can support the tent quite effectively. Simply cut two poles 9’-11” long, and insert two pins in the end, 3/8” diameter. You can cut the pins of rod-stock that may be obtained from any hardware store. Simply cut 2 pieces, 5” or longer, and insert them into a 3/8” hole drilled in the end of the pole, securing them with any waterproof glue such as silicon glue. When installed, the poles with lean outward very slightly, increasing stability. You can also cut them to exact height if you wish, for a better look but less stability. Ropes are required from the pins on the poles to the ground, and pull the ridge tight. The ropes only need to be 15’ long before tying, so you will need 30’ of rope. Buy a 50’ coil, and make a spare.

To set-up the tent, make sure the doors are tied shut, and stretch the tent out tightly on the ground. Spike down the corners and the sides. Install each pole with a rope, spiking the rope down about 6’ from the tent.

Pole and ridge setup:

A ridge pole can be made of either wood, such as a 2x4, or a pipe. The best way to raise a tent with a ridge-pole, is to first bolt the ridge pole to the tent. Drill two holes to exactly match the distance between the roof grommets, in the ridge pole. Insert bolts through from the bottom, and secure to the top, with washers and nuts. You can put a ball on the bolt if you make the bolt long enough. A croquet ball, painted gold, looks very nice. The uprights can be plumbing pipe, attached to the ridge pole with flange plates, but I prefer wood poles. Make two poles from 2x3 or 2x4’s or 3” round stock. Put a pin in the end that is not as long as the ridge is thick, so it won’t go all the way through the ridge pole. Drill 3 holes in the ridge pole for upright pole pins, one in the center, and 2 near the ends, just inside the bolts that attach the ridge to the roof. Put the ropes over the end pins, and install the center pole first, then the end ones. Depending on the strength of the poles, and the weather, you can probably remove the center one if you like, but I leave it there to hang stuff on.

This is the setup for the 2x4 based ridge pole:

An all-pipe setup:

For an all-pipe set-up, at least ¾” pipe is a good idea. Uprights need flanges at the bottom, to keep them from sinking into the ground. I have found that the best method for the top corners, is to use a pipe T-connector, and drop a landscaping nail from the outside, through the fabric grommet and into the T-pipe. You can also make or purchase tip adapters instead, which allows you to put a ball or other finial on the pin. Although the galvanized pipe sounds like it would be better because of rust, the black iron looks better, and if you spray paint it flat black, it doesn’t look as bad when chipped. Always remember to take pipe wrenches with you to events, as they go together easy, but just don’t like to come apart.

Swing-set setup:

You can also use swing set brackets like this:

It was made from 3/4"-inch pipe joiners, and 1/4" by 3/4" iron stock I got at the home center. The stock slides right down into a 3/4" pipe with no clips or anything and makes a pretty good frame. I haven't tried this with rigid conduit legs yet, so if you do, let me know if it works. You can have a small piece of stock welded across about 2" below the joint to make it strong enough to hold 300 pounds! Its nice because it all comes apart at the end of the event and packs in the trunk. Bring pipe wrenches to get them apart, they come apart harder than they went together! I haven't tried it, but maybe you could get by with heavy metal conduit for the legs?

X-Style End-frames:

The x-style frames are probably the most popular for those who have the room to transport them. They look great if you do them right, but try to avoid the highest quality lumber, as it looks better to have knots and irregular coloration. I use cedar, and give it a good coat of flat clear, to keep the oils off of the fabric. Usually, a pipe is used for the top ridge, but I have seen 2x4’s used also. What ever you use, be sure it is structurally windproof, as most failures occur the point that the ridge attaches to the x-frame. You can reduce failures at this point by always using guy lines when inclement weather is coming.

Full Frames:

For side frames, pulling straps through slots in the side-boards, gives a nice, tight, seal. Keep in mind that you will have to carry a lot more wood with you if you go full-frame. 1x6 or greater looks best, with 1x8 giving the best look I have seen. If you look through a lot of wood, you can find some rough looking cedar with wild coloration, and sometimes with one unplaned side! I put hinges inside at each corner...the kind with removable pins, about 4" and weather resistant is best. Number the corners inside so you always get the same two together and the hinges line up. I keep 2 of the hinges opposite each diagonally, attached, and don't bother removing those pins, just folding those two pieces together. That makes less work to set up and tear down, and less pieces to haul around. On the outside of the long parts at the end, I put in fake tennons, about 1/4" thick and 1/2" x 5" to make it look like joinery rather than hinges are holding it together. Near the end on both side pieces, I also have a piece of 3/8" rope around the boards that is just a loose loop. Once the frame is set up, I pull the loop tight and give it several twists around an iron spike until its taught, and drive in the spike. This makes a good hold-down for the frame and keeps it in place pretty good in the wind, not to mention looking real Viking. Vikings like ropes.

You can add a few loops of strapping or heavy canvas in the roof for an outside ridgepole, or cut a small slot in the fabric at the peaks on the ends for a pole to pass through. After you cut the slot, just take a needle and large thread or poultry binding string, and whip the edge of the hole you made, and re-inforce the end of the slit inside with a piece of canvas or several loops of thread across where a future rip would form.
I have also seen a rope used as a ridge rope, by tying it to a cross point on the X-frame, running it into one grommet hole, out the next, and tying it to the opposite X-frame. Actually there is a knot just inside and outside each grommet hole, and the rope is stored with the tent, simply tying it to the X's before raising. Lots of lashing turns looks very Viking.

Joint Construction:

I am making a new set of X-frames that dissasemble and have joints made of wood connectors, finger style. I hope to get an example online this summer.

Decoration:

I would love to post your pics here! Please email me pics!!!

Cleaning:
Cleaning of treated canvas should only be done with the mildest of detergents. Dishwashing soap used sparingly and diluted with cool water is quite effective against most dirt, but just water and a soft brush is best. The goal is to "float" out the grime, and not to scrub it out if possible. If you use too much soap, it can be difficult to get it all out, but it must all be washed out or may cause accelerate break-down of the fabric if allowed to dry in. Sand and dirt, left in canvas fabrics, has a sandpaper effect on the fibers, and can cause premature wear. If you need to use a brush, we recommend something that is safe for a car finish, such as a soft car-wash brush. For tall tents, you can pitch the roof low to the ground without the walls on a 6 foot pole, instead of the 12 foot one, to aid being able to reach all areas. It is best to let the tent air out for at least a day or two to get real dry. Mildew stains are the most difficult to remove and are caused by packing a tent damp. Don't pack your tent damp! Bleaches and harsh cleaners will remove waterproofing, and require the area to be retreated with a waterproofing agent. Never use bleaches on colors or off-white canvas.

Repairs:
Repairs can be made with cotton or cotton-poly thread. Synthetic threads should only be used in areas where leaking won't make a difference, such as stake loops or the bottom of walls. Colored canvases need to be tested to make sure they do not run before you sew them on.

Folding:
Fold the tent by folding the ends in, giving a big rectangle. Continue folding in half, then in half again to the width where you can roll it up tightly and fit it in the bag. It may take a few attempts to get it rolled tight enough. A neatly folded tent will last much longer than one that is mistreated.

Storage:
ONLY STORE A TENT ABSOLUTELY DRY!!! When you have your tent dry dry dry, pack it in a plastic bag to keep it that way, and don't store it on the floor of your basement. Keep it on a dry shelf in a dry room. Ropes mildew too, and you should make sure to dry them and treat them in the same way as you do your tent. Don't store the ropes with the tent, as they can have dirt on them that will transfer to the fabric, and if they are manila ropes, they will transfer oils that will stain the tent. Spikes and poles should also be stored apart from the tent for the same reason.