RT-8-12P 12 Panel - 8.5 foot diameter - 12 ropes, 12 side and 12 rope spikes
RT-10-14P 14 Panel - 10.5 foot diameter - 14 ropes, 14 side and 14 rope spikes
RP-12-16P 16 Panel - 12.5 foot diameter - 16 ropes, 16 side and 16 rope spikes
The RT series tent is set-up using 12-16 ropes and long spikes, a 13 foot center pole, and small spikes around the perimeter to hold down the walls. Walls are attached and not removable. There are 2 roll-up-style doors opposite each other, with ties and a threshold strip to make setting up easier and ties for holding the door in the rolled-up position. Roof is reinforced with webbing for strength and has oversized attachment straps to allow for various configurations and modifications. Hand-sewn grommets added to the roof near rope tie points to allow inside poles to be used, but the poles are optional. The fabric is waterproof and mildew resistant, 10.8-11.4 ounce canvas that breathes well. The outside valance is attached at the top only, and can be easily modified in many ways. There is an inner valance of light-weight material that prevents seeing into the tent from the outside through the pole holes. A tip disk is available for a pin-type or plumbing-pipe pole. Use of a pole without a tip disk will cause wear at the tip area, so is not recommended. Ropes, Poles, and Spikes are generally not included, but are easy to make. Side poles should be about 6'-3", and aluminum sliding type modern poles can be used if you want to lighten the transport load.
Ropes:
3/8", 5/16", or ½" sisal, manila, or cotton rope, may be purchased in 50 or 100 foot coils at most Wal-marts, Home Centers, or Hardware Stores. 3/8" sisal rope is preferred by most, and it is what we use. Larger ropes can get heavy and bulky, and are certainly not needed for strength. Smaller diameters have a tendency to cut into straps more than 3/8" and look wimpy. To construct your lines (you will need 12,14, or 16 depending on the number of panels in the roof), start by cutting 25' long segments. "Whipping" the ends of the rope gives a nice finished look and keeps the ends organized. Although most people skip this step, a medieval rigger would not! Information on rope whipping can be found on the Internet, or in any Boy Scout or similar rope book. Next, tie a taut-line hitch (see below) about 2 feet from one end.
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There are many different ideas on what makes a perfect pole. I have seen everything from a drill core pipe (too heavy!) to PVC used (won't work, not recommended!). I find that the best poles are made from fir or poplar. Many other hardwoods are brittle, and what you want is something that bends slightly under heavy loads. Typically, a 13 foot 2x4 with the tip beveled a bit to a blunt point will work, but is not very medieval. If you are the only one that's going to see it, go for it! A 3x3 octagon can be ripped out of a 4x4 (untreated is better), and works well. Some people use ¾" iron pipe so they can take it apart and transport it easily. If you do this make SURE you bring a couple of small pipe wrenches. You should be aware also, that metal is a good conductor of lightning, and an ungrounded pipe sticking up in the middle of a field is ground zero. Grounded pipes are rarely hit and usually don't cause as much collateral damage. Conduit is usually designed to bend, and it is not a good idea. The length of your pole changes during a long war or from season to season... well not really... what does happen, is that the fabric changes as it stretches and shrinks with tension and the weather. It is a good idea to bring a few shims ½" or so to tighten up the pole if this happens. Putting a metal pole on wood shims will give a gap that can make lighting hits a VERY BAD THING. The bigger the gap, the more hit splatter you get on a strike. A 3/8" pin in the top of the pole will go though the grommet nicely, but be careful that you are going into the grommet and not the nearby fabric. A longer pin allows you to put a pennant at the top, and makes it easier to keep the pin in the grommet while raising the tent. To use a tip adapter, put the tip through the tent before raising it, and attach with a washer and nut. You can then thread a pipe into the adapter for easy lifting.
Wood spikes are period. Most other spikes, in particular, metal, are rare on medieval tents. In fact, until the 1950's, wood spikes where the most common on all tents! It is easy to hack out some stakes from scrap wood or even old shovel handles. A sharp axe and a handsaw makes quick work of it. Guy line stakes can be landscaping spikes in solid soil, but if the ground gets wet, you had best keep an eye on them. Wood stakes give a good medieval look to your encampment. You will need 12-16 long stakes (about 12-14"), and 16 short stakes about 9" max for the walls. Always keep a few extras on hand... you WILL lose some!
The first time putting up a new tent is a learning experience and a good time to take some measurements once it is up. The first time, get a helper, you are going to need one. Here is the method that I prefer to set up:
Put an extra stake at the exact center of where you want the tent, making sure you have room for lines on all sides. If you have removable lines with hooks, you can hook each hook to this center spike, and stretch them in all directions, to make a nice even spider web of 12,14,or 16 ropes. Put a spike about 3 feet past the end of each rope (depending on how far your rope slider knots or sliders are set - and they all should be set the same!) Now you can unhook each rope in turn from the center spike, and put the loop over the spike, tossing the hook end out near the spike to get it out of the way.
Now plop the tent into the center of the area, and fold it back in half so you can get to the tip. Don't walk on the fabric! Put the tip adapter or your pole through the center hole and secure it with the washer and nut, attaching any ball or pennants at this point. Attach the pole to the adapter, making sure you didn't put it through the doorway or the threshold will catch when you try to raise it. Unfold the tent and attach the rope hooks to the straps, being careful not to miss any or you will have to go back and look for it.
Raise the pole to the up position and set the base next to the center spike. You should be able to tighten the lines now. The first time you do this, it is a good idea to have at least 2 people. Once you get the system down, it gets a lot easier, and one person can put it up.
Most people leave the back door tied shut unless the weather is unbearably hot. I like to put 2 poles on either side of the front door so I can reposition the lines there fore better access. I then use colorful cloth to make simple curtains that I use instead tying the door shut, unless a storm is coming. If all is installed correctly, the ropes should pull the fabric tight between them. You may have to reposition the spikes if you cannot get a good tension, or the walls are saggy at the bottom. You may also have to increase the pole height by a few inches to fix sagginess (a few small plumbing pieces and another joiner will fix it. Put a flange at the bottom of the pole to keep it from sinking in to the mud.
Cleaning of treated canvas should only be done with the mildest of detergents. Dishwashing soap used sparingly and diluted with cool water is quite effective against most dirt, but just water and a soft brush is best. The goal is to "float" out the grime, and not to scrub it out if possible. If you use too much soap, it can be difficult to get it all out, but it must all be washed out or may cause accelerate break-down of the fabric if allowed to dry in. Sand and dirt, left in canvas fabrics, has a sandpaper effect on the fibers, and can cause premature wear. If you need to use a brush, we recommend something that is safe for a car finish, such as a soft car-wash brush. You can pitch the roof low to the ground without the walls on a 6 foot pole, instead of the 12 foot one, to aid being able to reach all areas. It is best to let the tent air out for at least a day or two to get real dry. Mildew stains are the most difficult to remove and are caused by packing a tent damp. Don't pack your tent damp! Bleaches and harsh cleaners will remove waterproofing, and require the area to be retreated with a waterproofing agent. Never use bleaches on colors or off-white canvas.
Repairs can be made with cotton or cotton-poly thread. Synthetic threads should only be used in areas where leaking won't make a difference, such as stake loops or the bottom of walls. Colored canvases need to be tested to make sure they do not run before you sew them on.
Fold the tent by folding overlapping triangles into a big heavy triangle, then fold the tip all the way down to the valance. Continue folding in half, then in half again to the size you require for transport. A neatly folded tent will last much longer than one that is mistreated.
ONLY STORE A TENT ABSOLUTELY DRY!!! When you have your tent dry dry dry, pack it in a plastic bag to keep it that way, and don't store it on the floor of your basement. Keep it on a dry shelf in a dry room. Ropes mildew too, and you should make sure to dry them and treat them in the same way as you do your tent. Don't store the ropes with the tent, as they can have dirt on them that will transfer to the fabric, and if they are manila ropes, they will transfer oils that will stain the tent. Spikes and poles should also be stored apart from the tent for the same reason.