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Instructions for Bell-Wedge with open side Medieval Tent

Tent Set-up

The bell-wedge in side-open French style is designed to be a strong, light-weight medieval pavilion that is easy to put up, and transport. It lends itself to easy modification, and can be configured in a number of ways. Only two poles are needed, but a ridge makes for more room inside, and allows for an overhead shade-fly to be added. Mud flaps are included, and allow a 7'-2" to 8' height depending on set-up. The door has 3 tie-ups, and there are 2 heavy rope loops at the peak that can be used to pull the ridge tight without a ridgepole or for wind-lines if the wind is greater than strong gusts.

Ropes:

Ropes for the ends can be tied from 3/8" sisal or equivalent, and slider knots can be used to pull them tight if desired (see below). Generally, you don't need to use the wind lines, and they can be run across the back out of the way when weather isn't awful.

Poles:

There are many different ideas on what makes a perfect pole. I have seen everything from a drill core pipe (too heavy!) to PVC used (won't work, not recommended!). I find that the best poles are made from fir or poplar. Many other hardwoods are brittle, and what you want is something that bends slightly under heavy loads. Typically, a 13 foot 2x4 with the tip beveled a bit to a blunt point will work, but is not very medieval. If you are the only one that's going to see it, go for it! A 3x3 octagon can be ripped out of a 4x4 (untreated is better), and works well. Some people use 3/4" iron pipe so they can take it apart and transport it easily. If you do this make SURE you bring a couple of small pipe wrenches. You should be aware also, that metal is a good conductor of lightning, and an ungrounded pipe sticking up in the middle of a field is ground zero. Grounded pipes are rarely hit and usually don't cause as much collateral damage. Conduit is usually designed to bend, and it is not a good idea. Aluminum poles WILL BEND if used for this tent! The length of your pole changes during a long war or from season to season... well not really... what does happen, is that the fabric changes as it stretches and shrinks with tension and the weather. It is a good idea to bring a few shims 1/2" or so to tighten up the pole if this happens. Putting a metal pole on wood shims will give a gap that can make lighting hits a VERY BAD THING. The bigger the gap, the more hit splatter you get on a strike. A 3/8" pin in the top of the pole will go though the grommet nicely, but be careful that you are going into the grommet and not the nearby fabric. A longer pin allows you to put a pennant at the top, and makes it easier to keep the pin in the grommet while raising the tent. To use a tip adapter, put the tip through the tent before raising it, and attach with a washer and nut. You can then thread a pipe into the adapter for easy lifting. Make sure the end of your pole is at least 3-square inches, or it may pull through the grommet hole, and your tent will neatly slide down to the ground! If you use something with a small end, like a heavy swaged-end tent pole, use a big washer to prevent it going through the hole.

Spikes:

Wood spikes are period. Most other spikes, in particular, metal, are rare on medieval tents. In fact, until the 1950's, wood spikes where the most common on all tents! It is easy to hack out some stakes from scrap wood or even old shovel handles. A sharp axe and a handsaw make quick work of it. Guy line stakes can be landscaping spikes in solid soil, but if the ground gets wet, you had best keep an eye on them. Wood stakes give a good medieval look to your encampment. You will need about 24 stakes (about 12-14") Always keep a few extras on hand... you WILL lose some!

Pitching:

The first time putting up a new tent is a learning experience and a good time to take some measurements once it is up. The first time, get a helper; you are going to need the moral support if nothing else. Here is the method that I prefer to set up:

First thing you need to do, is forget what you learned in math class. You can't just start staking down the thing all around with the idea that it will all come out in the end. Bell-wedges and cone tents both require that you stretch the outer edge out into a nice neat figure, in this case, an oval. You need to go around the tent at least 3 times stretching between the spike straps to get a nice tight oval. As you do, flip the mud flap inside at each strap. You shouldn't have any bunching or flipped up edges, just a nice neat oval. The second time its easy, really!

Now you can tack down the spikes, keeping that stretch. If you are going to raise it up off the ground and use the mud flap to make the tent taller, you should not hammer them all the way in. Now install the poles. Done. Well if you want to use a ridgepole, you have another step or two. Cut a ridgepole from rectangular stock, such as a 2x4, 10' long. Square stock such as 2x2's is not sufficient! Conduit just won't work. Measure the exact distance between the two ridge holes, add 3 inches, and cut it. Now drill two holes for the pins. Chamfer off the end with a saw or rasp to keep the ends of the ridge from cutting into the fabric, and sand them. You can stick two eye-bolts through the holes from the bottom (stainless steel is best!) and stick them through the fabric, adding a large washer and nut to hold the ridge to the tent. The eyebolts are great for hanging chains with lanterns on them! Now you can put in poles. I like to put in two poles, each about 2 feet from an end, so I drill holes in those places about 3/4 of the way through the ridge pole. The pins on my poles are just long enough to go 3/4 of the way through. Actually, I have one hole in the center too, which is the first pole I put in, then I add an end one, then move the center one outward to the other hole. It may be easier not to hammer the spikes all-the-way in if you plan on moving poles around, then hammer them when you are done. Some people use just one pole in the center, but you can see that it is possible to move them all over the place! By moving them in, I have room for a double bed on one end, a sitting area in the middle, and a large storage area in the other end. I don't bother with the door much, leaving it open all day, and using a large tarp as a sunshade over the top. You HAVE to use a ridge pole if you want to use an over-tarp! I use a 10x20 tarp, but 10x10 to 10x22 all should work. I have wooden croquet balls on the tip pins for decoration, and a couple of nice poles out front for the tarp.

Poles can be 7'5" - 7'11" if you don't use a ridgepole, but as I am not very tall (5'-9") I use 7'5" poles I made from some teak I had laying around. This gives me a serious mud flap underlay for my carpet (subtract the ridgepole height to get the actual) The first time I set one up, I was thinking about if I should use end ropes when a huge gust of wind came up, and...nuthin! It didn't even notice the wind! That was without a ridgepole. You can also use swing set brackets like this:

It was made from 3/4"-inch pipe joiners, and 1/4" by 3/4" iron stock I got at the home center. The stock slides right down into a 3/4" pipe with no clips or anything and makes a pretty good frame. I haven't tried this with rigid conduit legs yet, so if you do, let me know if it works. You can have a small piece of stock welded across about 2" below the joint to make it strong enough to hold 300 pounds! Its nice because it all comes apart at the end of the event and packs in the trunk. Bring pipe wrenches to get them apart, they come apart harder than they went together!

I have sewn in 3 loops on my door so I can hold it open in the rain, by running 3' of rope from each loop to the ground. The loops are at each seam on the door. Even in hard rain, only a tiny bit gets in, and you need to keep critical stuff away from a bell-wedge door anyway, at least the open-side type. Of course you will probably make a big awning anyway with a bunch of trim and all that....looks cool! Just sit in the tent and watch the world go by.

Back view with no ridge pole

Tent Care

Cleaning:

Cleaning of treated canvas should only be done with the mildest of detergents. Dishwashing soap used sparingly and diluted with cool water is quite effective against most dirt, but just water and a soft brush is best. The goal is to "float" out the grime, and not to scrub it out if possible. If you use too much soap, it can be difficult to get it all out, but it must all be washed out or may cause accelerate break-down of the fabric if allowed to dry in. Sand and dirt, left in canvas fabrics, has a sandpaper effect on the fibers, and can cause premature wear. If you need to use a brush, we recommend something that is safe for a car finish, such as a soft car-wash brush. For tall tents, you can pitch the roof low to the ground without the walls on a 6 foot pole, instead of the 12 foot one, to aid being able to reach all areas. It is best to let the tent air out for at least a day or two to get real dry. Mildew stains are the most difficult to remove and are caused by packing a tent damp. Don't pack your tent damp! Bleaches and harsh cleaners will remove waterproofing, and require the area to be retreated with a waterproofing agent. Never use bleaches on colors or off-white canvas.

Repairs:

Repairs can be made with cotton or cotton-poly thread. Synthetic threads should only be used in areas where leaking won't make a difference, such as stake loops or the bottom of walls. Colored canvases need to be tested to make sure they do not run before you sew them on.

Folding:

Fold the tent by folding the ends in, giving a big rectangle. Continue folding in half, then in half again to the width where you can roll it up tightly and fit it in the bag. It may take a few attempts to get it rolled tight enough. A neatly folded tent will last much longer than one that is mistreated.

Storage:

ONLY STORE A TENT ABSOLUTELY DRY!!! When you have your tent dry dry dry, pack it in a plastic bag to keep it that way, and don't store it on the floor of your basement. Keep it on a dry shelf in a dry room. Ropes mildew too, and you should make sure to dry them and treat them in the same way as you do your tent. Don't store the ropes with the tent, as they can have dirt on them that will transfer to the fabric, and if they are manila ropes, they will transfer oils that will stain the tent. Spikes and poles should also be stored apart from the tent for the same reason.